Weekly wine update: Germany
Today we learned about the wines of Germany (and theoretically of Austria). German wine labels are pretty complicated, but I don't want to spend a lot of time finding appropriate label images, etc, to explain them. Basically, the quality wines are labeled Qualitaetswein mit Praedikat (ae = a with an umlaut), where the Praedikat is an indication of how ripe the grapes were when they were picked. Kabinett grapes are picked when they are the least ripe, with Spaetlese coming next, then some others that I've forgotten but which would make for really expensive wine anyhow.
Also, I know my dad used to say that the Germans keep all their good wine in Germany. While that used to be true, things have apparently changed, and now the nation focuses largely on producing quality wines for the world market.
German wines tend to be pretty sweet, so I wasn't a big fan of them, but they are often low in alcohol and tend to go with a lot of foods.
So here's what we tried:
Also, I know my dad used to say that the Germans keep all their good wine in Germany. While that used to be true, things have apparently changed, and now the nation focuses largely on producing quality wines for the world market.
German wines tend to be pretty sweet, so I wasn't a big fan of them, but they are often low in alcohol and tend to go with a lot of foods.
So here's what we tried:
- Gruner Veltliner, "Lois" Loimer, Kamptal, Neiderosterreich, Austria, 2003 ($12)
- Weinheimer Holle Silvaner Halbtrocken, Qba, Gysler, Rheinhessen, Germany, 2003 ($12--1 liter bottle)
- "Dr. L" Riesling, Qba, Loosen, Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany, 2003 ($11-$12, features a screwcap bottle)
- Maximin Grunhauser Herrenberg, Kabinett, Carl Von Schubert, Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany, 2001 ($17)
- Nierstein Riesling Spatlese, Baron Heyl, Rheinhessen, Germany, 2003 ($20)
- Rudesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Spatlese, Weingut Johannishof Rheingau, Germany, 2003 ($25)
posted by megan at
5:48 PM
2 Comments:
Oh! Mosel wines! I cry in longing. I lived on the Mosel River for a semester. What a happy place.
Beyond Spaetlese (late picked) is Auslese (the ripest of the Spaetlese), then Beerenauslese (practically raisins), then Eiswein (left on the vines until they freeze). They get progressively sweeter and more syrupy (because the grapes are left on the vines longer and longer) and also more expensive. The bottles also get awfully small. :)
Oliver Winery has its first ice wine this year! There's only a tiny bit of it, but I'm really excited to see what it's like.
By
RebeccaP, at 10:25 PM
There's actually an even riper Prädikat than Beerenauslese. Beerenauslese are described as made from individually picked, noble-rot-affected grapes (not bunches). Beerenauslese means, literally, berry-selected.
Trockenbeerenauslese wines are supposed to be made from raisined berries ("dry-berry-selected".) They are extremely rare and are a tremendous amount of hard labor to produce. The berries may be so dry that they are actually hard, and can't be pressed. They only give juice by reason of enzymes that eventually break down the grapes, and in order to activate the enzymes, the producer has to sacrifice some previous Trockenbeerenauslese wine to moisten them.
Some people refer to these wines as "BA" and "TBA", respectively.
The TBA wines are often nearly black from the noble rot, and are not pleasant to drink young. Classic TBA wines really cannot be pleasurably enjoyed for 25-30 years after the vintage. The reason for this is that there is a tremendous amount of phenolic skin extract in such wines, and they will taste quite bitter until they are well-aged.
A half-bottle of a fine Trockenbeerenauslese from a top house in Germany can sell in the range of $150 to as much as several thousand dollars. A typical TBA(the 2001) from Gunderloch in the Rheinhessen (Rheinfront Roter Hang) sold at retail (I bought one) for $330 for a 375-ml half-bottle.
Before the current standardization of the wine laws was achieved since 1971, there were several other titles that were used to describe these extremely late-harvested wines. They have now been made illegal. Examples; Ausbruch, Edelbeerenauslese, Goldbeerenauslese.
A typical TBA may contain up to 50 percent sugar and is about as thick as maple syrup.
Just a note--the wines and wine law of Austria bear only a superficial resemblance to those of Germany. Some of the terms are similar but the meanings vary, and some of the terms are not used in Germany at all. The difference between German and Austrian wines is in general NOT one of quality--Austrian wines have a completely different style and show a wonderful take of their own on the products of the grape.
By
Sweetstuff, at 10:35 PM
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